We woke up Friday morning with sore throats and stuffy noses (likely a result of international travel and lack of sleep), but decided to keep our 7 am private surfing lesson because, well, how could we pass that up?? We met up with Viktor, who turned out to be the best surf instructor on the planet, to learn the basics of positioning, balancing, and avoiding serious injury while on the longboard. We did some drills on the beach for all of five minutes before deciding it was time to hit the waves.
Before I describe our time in the ocean, let me just say that I am now obsessed with surfing. The technique, the challenge, the beauty, the waves. It is glorious.
Once we donned our rash guards and hit the open water, Viktor and his Rastafarian friend taught us how to balance on the board, paddle, paddle, paddle, and then catch the wave at the most opportune time. Stay near the back of the board, don’t lean forward, bend your knees. We didn’t make it up our first several attempts, of course, but within 30 minutes we were riding the waves, which I’m told makes us naturals. Luckily, our new friend Luke happened to be on the beach during our lesson, and he got some great footage. Here I go!
And here goes Mere!
We were the only people on the beach at the time, and it was just perfect. I cannot describe how great it feels to glide over the water’s surface knowing that every tiny detail of your execution worked together to create that moment. We caught waves and wiped out until our legs were rubbed raw and we were too weak to pull ourselves onto our boards, and we loved every single minute of it.